New Zealander Joe Easley takes his duties as a guide very seriously. At the Mangadepopo car park, he gathers a small group of hikers about to cross the Tongariro volcanic plateau and issues a series of warnings.
“If you hear an explosion on the way, look first for flying pieces of rock. And if the lava flow expands through the valley, the opposite mountain will recover,” he says very dramatically.
The guide smiles as a group of tourists from different countries look at him questioningly. “Well, an eruption is unlikely, but statistically it’s pending. After all, we’re traveling through the most active volcanic region in New Zealand,” he explains.
Before offering packed lunches and hiking poles, Easley briefly digresses into the history of New Zealand’s first Central North Island National Park, which has existed since 1887. Tongariro National Park is located 340 kilometers south of Auckland.
The Maori legend surrounding the Tongariro volcano dates back to the 14th century. One of his priests was caught in a blizzard while climbing the volcanic mountains.
According to legend, the priest asked the gods of his homeland “Hawaiki” for help in order not to freeze to death. The gods heard his plea and sent fire demons to him, who saved him from death. At the same time they unleashed volcanic forces across the region. Since then, the mountains and lakes surrounding Mount Tongariro have been among the sacred places of Maori.
A narrow path, several meters high
Three active volcanoes, Tongariro (1,968 meters), Nakaruho (2,291 meters) and Rubehu (2,797 meters), the highest in the country, are located on the high plateau.
At less than 20 kilometers, the route doesn’t seem too long. But the altitude is challenging: you have to climb almost 1,200 meters. The Alpine Trek’s official website recommends “good physical condition”. The walk takes seven to eight hours.
The first 90 minutes of the tour are fairly easy. From the starting point at the end of Mangadepopo Road to the “Soda Springs”, footpaths lead for long stretches through wet grasslands.
Behind the “Soda Springs”, the trail exits the Mancatepopo Valley, carved by Ice Age glaciers. The path steepens. “Devil’s Staircase” is the path leading up to the southern crater.
Two Chinese hikers and an Australian couple decide to turn back and miss the scenic view on the Crater Plateau. Clouds of thick fog cut across the rocky lunar landscape. From time to time, figures of climbers appear. One feels that one is in an unreal and enchanting world.
Arriving at the edge of the caldera, the landscape that follows recalls the formation of the Earth’s crust many centuries ago: on one side, coal-black lava flows and on the other, the almost fully formed volcanic cone of Ngauruhoe.
Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings
Director Peter Jackson couldn’t have had a better set-up when scouting locations for the film adaptation of the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy.
The lava around the towering volcanoes became Mordor, the dark realm of the villainous Sauron, while Nakaruho served as the model for Mount Doom, the mountain of fire where Charon’s ring plunged from the dead. The Hobbit Frodo.
Although the volcano of Tolkien’s story erupted destructively at the end of the “Third Age” following Sauron’s orders, today the fictional Mount Doom shows its peaceful side. Since its last eruption in 1977, the fire-breathing mountain has been on hiatus.
Mt Tongariro also appears to be fast asleep. “That could change soon,” the guide points out, referring to the mountain’s last small eruption in 2012, which lasted just a few minutes. But the rock fragments were enough to break through the roof of Ketetahi’s shelter.
A steep path leads to the “Red Crater”, the highest point in Tongariro at almost 1,900 metres. The air smells of sulphur. In the background, clouds of steam rise from the Oturere valley.
A steep descent begins on slippery scree. The panoramic view of “Emerald” and “Blue” lakes, volcanoes and valleys forces you to stop again and again.
Crowds of visitors annoy the Maori
After descending, take a break to eat on the shores of the lake. Despite the smell of sulfur emanating from springs and cracks, dozens of hikers take the opportunity to rest. On sunny days there are usually thousands of people in the park.
For “The Lord of the Rings” fans, the park offers special excursions to visit locations where the movie was filmed.
The film trilogy resulted in a significant increase in viewership, which was viewed critically, particularly as the sacred sites of the Maori were robbed of their peace. Meanwhile, the possibility of restricting tourist arrivals is being considered.
Joe seems upset when he sees a group of hikers eating their snacks on the shores of “Blue Lake”. To the guide, this was completely disrespectful behavior on a lake that was “tapu” (sacred) to the Maori.
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